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The Rise Moody Board
2016 MoonBoard with additional wooden holds on an offset grid
The trial…
To try and improve our board and training facilities, as a trial we have squeezed a woodie board onto the MoonBoard by adding wooden holds on an off-set grid.
We are aware that the MoonBoard is a standardised training board, and that any modifications can have an impact on the climbing experience. By using small and low-profile wooden holds we have tried to minimise the impact on the MoonBoard problems.
We really want feedback about the modified MoonBoard as we do not want to make any unilateral decisions without input from the people who regularly climb on the board - as ultimately it is your opinions which matter most.
We have set an initial trial period of 4 weeks. After this we will review any feedback we receive and then decide whether the wooden holds will stay on the MoonBoard or not.
We hope that by adding the wooden holds, we have created an extra training tool for people, and improved our board climbing offering. But, if we have got it wrong just let us know and we will do something else with the wooden holds!
The holds
The wooden holds have been custom made for us by Kirill, Cake Climbing.
They are typically low profile, with a range of flat edges, in-cut edges and small pinches. Climbing on them is a really good alternative to hangboarding for finger strength training.
Please do not put your feet on the wooden holds - this damages the holds. Use the resin holds for feet.
How it works
The addition of the woodies on an off-set grid, creates a hybrid where you can create your own problems. You can use wood, resin or a mix of both. The only rule is no feet on the woodies.
We are still working out the best way to record the blocs, initially Kirill has set up an Instagram account (@moodyriseboard) where you can submit your climbs and find a list of blocs.
We will use a similar format to the Kilter Board to mark down the blocs:
Green - Start Hold(s)
Blue - Hands and Feet
Orange - Feet only
Purple - Finish
No feet on woodies
2016 MoonBoard
You can still use the MoonBoard with the standard 2016 set-up, connecting via bluetooth using the Moon Climbing app to choose and light up blocs.
When setting up the Moon Climbing app select the following options for the Moonboard layout:
Select your MoonBoard type: Standard
Select your hold setup: MoonBoard 2016
Select your hold sets: Hold Set A, Hold Set B, Original School Holds
When filtering the climbs on the app we recommend to select the Benchmark problems, and sort by Most Repeats. Generally this will mean you are left with better climbs which are more consistently graded.